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Coastal Dynamics

This textbook focuses on the interrelation between physical wave, flow and sediment transport phenomena and the resulting morphodynamics of a wide variety of coastal systems. It is unique in that it explicitly connects the dynamics of open coasts and tidal basins; not only is the interaction between open coasts and tidal basins of basic importance for the evolution of most coastal systems, but describing the similarities between their physical processes is highly instructive as well.

Oceanography Geosciences

Author: Judith Bosboom & Marcel J.F. Stive
Publisher: Delft University of Technology
Source: LibreTexts
License: CC BY-NC-SA
Language: EN
Category: Basic Sciences

Read online Download PDF (open licence)

Contents· 287 sections

01: Overview
1.01: Introduction
1.02: Coastal dynamics for coastal engineers
1.2.01: What is coastal engineering
1.2.02: Position of Coastal Dynamics in the DUT curriculum
1.03: Study goals
1.04: Examples of engineering applications
1.4.01: Overview of coastal area and problems
1.4.2: Cross-shore profile
1.4.3: Morphological development in vicinity of a port
1.4.4: Delta near a river mouth
1.4.5: Tidal inlets and basins
1.4.6: Dune erosion and flooding during a severe storm surge
1.4.7: Large artificial island in open sea
1.4.8: Other examples
1.05: Coastal (morpho) dynamics
1.5.01: Definition of the coast
1.5.2: Coastal morphodynamics
1.5.3: Time and spatial scales
1.5.4: Equilibrium concept
1.5.5: Classification of coastal systems
1.06: Important parties in the Netherlands
1.07: References
1.7.01: Lecture notes
1.7.2: Textbooks
1.7.3: Internet sources
1.7.4: Interesting journals
1.7.5: Conference proceedings
02: Large-scale geographical variation of coasts
2.01: Introduction
2.02: Cumulative evolution of coastal systems
2.2.01: Geological timescale
2.2.2: Continental 'drift'
2.2.3: Pleistocene inheritance
2.03: Tectonic control of coasts
2.3.01: Plate tectonic theory
2.3.2: Tectonic plate setting of coasts
2.3.3: First-order coastal sedimentary features
2.3.4: Summary of the tectonic classification
2.04: Pleistocene inheritance of cliffed coasts
2.05: (Holocene) transgression versus regression
2.5.01: Geological sea-level changes
2.5.2: Role of sea-level rise in Holocene coastal evolution
2.5.3: More recent coastal development
2.06: Nature and abundance of coastal material
2.6.01: Sources of sediments deposits
2.6.2: Sediment sizes
2.6.3: Geographical variation
2.6.4: Muddy coasts
2.6.5: Sandy coasts
2.6.6: Vegetation
2.07: Process-based classification
2.7.01: Dominance of fluvial wave or tidal processes
2.7.2: Ternary diagrams for progradation and transgression
2.7.3: Classification of deltas
2.7.4: Overview and examples of coastal forms
2.08: Summary of coastal classification
03: Ocean waves
3.01: Introduction
3.02: Oscillations of the ocean water surface
3.03: Measuring ocean surface elevations
3.04: Short-term wave statistics
3.4.01: Description of wave characteristics
3.4.2: Analysis of the time-series
3.4.3: Spectral Analysis
3.4.4: Short-term wave height distribution
3.05: Wind wave generation and dispersion
3.5.01: Locally generated sea
3.5.2: Wave Dispersion
3.5.3: Wave groups
3.5.4: Sea versus swell waves
3.06: Long term statistics and extreme values
3.07: Generation of the tide
3.7.01: Equilibrium theory of the tide
3.7.2: Gravitational pull
3.7.3: Differential pull or the tide-generating force
3.7.4: Spring and neap tide
3.7.5: Daily inequality
3.7.6: Tidal constituents
3.08: Propagation of the tide
3.8.01: Dynamic theory of tides
3.8.2: Amphidromic Systems
3.8.3: Kelvin waves
3.09: Tidal analysis and prediction
04: Global wave and tidal environments
4.01: Introduction
4.02: Zonal wind systems and ocean circulation
4.2.01: Solar radiation and temperature distribution
4.2.2: Atmospheric circulation and wind patterns
4.2.3: Oceanic circulation
4.03: Large-scale variation in wave environments
4.3.01: Wave height variation
4.3.2: Wave environments
4.3.3: Coastal impact of different wave conditions
4.04: Large-scale variation in tidal characteristics
4.4.01: Global tidal environments
4.4.2: Coastal impact of tide and classification
05: Coastal hydrodynamics
5.01: Introduction
5.02: Wave transformation
5.2.01: Energy balance
5.2.02: Shoaling
5.2.3: Refraction
5.2.4: Diffraction
5.2.5: Wave breaking
5.03: Wave asymmetry and skewness
5.04: Wave orbital velocity pressure and bed shear stress
5.4.01: Wave orbital velocities
5.4.2: Dynamic Pressure
5.4.3: Wave boundary layer
5.05: Wave-induced set-up and currents
5.5.01: Wave-induced mass flux or momentum
5.5.2: Radiation Stress
5.5.3: Wave-induced forces
5.5.4: Cross-shore balance-wave set-up and set-down
5.5.5: Alongshore balance-longshore current
5.5.6: Vertical structure of the wave-induced currents
5.5.7: 3D effects
5.06: Wind-induced set-up and currents
5.07: Tidal propagation in coastal waters
5.7.01: Definitions
5.7.2: Tidal propagation along the shore
5.7.3: Tidal propagation into basins
5.7.4: Tidal asymmetry
5.7.5: Overtides
5.7.6: Residual currents
5.08: Curvature-induced and Coriolis-induced secondary flow
5.8.01: Seiches
5.8.2: Bound long waves and surfbeat
06: Sediment transport
6.01: Introduction
6.02: Sediment properties
6.2.01: General
6.2.2: Grain size, density and bulk properties
6.2.3: Fall velocity
6.03: Initiation of motion
6.3.01: Forces on a single grain
6.3.2: Shields curve
6.04: Basic principles of transport modelling
6.4.01: Definitions
6.4.2: Practical modelling of sediment transport
6.05: Bed load based on the Shields parameter
6.5.01: Importance of the Shields parameter
6.5.2: Including waves
6.5.3: Instantaneous bed load transport
6.5.4: Bed load transport based on time-averaged shear stress
6.5.5: Summary and concluding remarks
6.06: Diffusion approach for suspended transport
6.6.01: General formulation
6.6.2: Sediment continuity
6.6.3: Time-averaged concentration distribution
6.07: Energetics approach
6.7.01: Introduction
6.7.2: Energetics approach for combination of waves and currents
6.08: Some aspects of (very) fine sediment transport
6.8.01: Memory effects
6.8.2: Critical shear stress and settling velocity
6.8.3: Environmental issues
6.09: Discussion
6.9.01: Choice of formulations
6.9.2: Specific situations
07: Cross-shore transport and profile development
7.01: Introduction
7.02: Equilibrium shorface profile
7.2.01: The concept
7.2.2: (Semi-) empirical derivations
7.2.3: Engineering applications
7.03: Morphodynamics of the upper shoreface
7.3.01: Introduction
7.3.2: Beach states
7.3.3: Storm and seasonal changes
7.3.4: Bar cycles over years
7.3.5: Episodic changes (dune erosion)
7.04: Structural losses gains
7.05: Cross-shore sediment transport
7.5.01: Introduction
7.5.2: Decomposition of the transport rate
7.5.3: Analytical solutions for the middle and lower shoreface
08: Coastal protection
8.01: Introduction
8.02: Coastal protection strategies and methods
10.2.1: Management strategies
10.2.2: Selection of protection method
10.2.3: From problem definition to realisation
8.03: Coastal erosion
10.3.1: Structural erosion of coasts
10.3.2: Beach and dune erosion during severe storm surges
10.3.3: Dynamic behaviour of tidal inlets
8.04: Modification of longshore transport processes
8.05: Structures influencing longshore transport rates
10.5.1: Introduction
10.5.2: Jetties or shore-normal breakwaters
10.5.3: Groynes
10.5.4: Detached shore parallel offshore breakwaters
10.5.5: Piers and trestles
10.5.6: Concluding remarks
8.06: Structures protecting against storm-induced erosion
10.6.1: Introduction
10.6.2: Seawalls
10.6.3: Revetments
10.6.4: Sea-dikes
8.07: Nourishments
10.7.1: Introduction
10.7.2: Design aspects
10.7.3: Counteracting structural erosion of coasts
10.7.4: Dune Reinforcement
10.7.5: Beach widening and creation
10.7.6: A new nourishment strategy- the Sand Engine
9: Coastal inlets and tidal basins
10.01: Introduction
10.02: Basin and inlet types
9.2.1: Bays lagoons and estuaries
9.2.2: Hydrodynamical classification
9.2.3: Hydraulic boundary conditions and geometric controls
10.03: The main morphological elements
9.3.1: Introduction
9.3.2: Tidal deltas
9.3.3: Basin characteristics
10.04: The ebb-tidal delta or outer delta
9.4.1: Waves and currents at the outer delta
9.4.2: Sediment transport patterns
9.4.3: Empirical relationships: volume of the ebb-tidal delta
10.05: Stability of the inlet cross-sectional area
9.5.1: Escoffier's model
9.5.2: Empirical equilibrium cross-sectional area
10.06: The inner basin geometry
9.6.1: Complex geometry of tidal basins
9.6.2: Equilibrium relations for tidal channels and flats
10.07: Net sediment import or export
9.7.1: Introduction
9.7.2: Tide-induced residual transport of (medium to) coarse sediment
9.7.3: Fine sediment transport and siltation
9.7.4: Overview of the relation morphology and sediment transport
9.7.5: Large scale morphodynamics
10.08: Changes in dynamic equilibrium
9.8.1: Closure of a part of the tidal basin
9.8.2: Accretion of new land
9.8.3: Relative sea-level rise
9.8.4: Adaptation time
09: Longshore transport and coastline changes
9.01: Introduction
9.02: Longshore transport formulations
8.2.1: General transport formulations
8.2.2: Cross-shore distribution of longshore transport
8.2.3: Bulk longshore transport formulations
8.2.4: The (S)-curve
8.2.5: Yearly-averaged sediment transport
9.03: Calculation of coastline position
8.3.1: Introduction
8.3.2: Single Line Theory
8.3.3: Analytical solution for accretion near breakwater or jetty
8.3.4: Multiple line theory
9.04: Coastal features and coastal change due to longshore transport
8.4.1: Introduction
8.4.2: Blockage of longshore transport by shore-normal structures
8.4.3: Shadow effects due to obstacles away from the shoreline
8.4.4: Shoreline perturbation
8.4.5: Interrupted coasts: spits
8.4.6: Deltaic coastlines
11: Appendix A - Linear wave theory
12: Appendix B - Waves breaking on a beach
12.01: B.1- Scale comparison
12.02: B.2- Periodic wave results
12.03: B.3- Random wave results
13: Appendix C - Hydrographic charts
13.01: C.1- Introduction
13.02: C.2- Units and their background
13.03: C.3- Explanatory notes
13.04: C.4- The map itself
13.05: C.5- Interpretation
13.06: C.6- Limitations
14: Appendix D - Stability of Structures
14.01: D.1- Introduction
14.02: D.2- Initiation of transport and damage
14.03: D.3- Other protections
15: Appendix E - Responses to the closures of Dutch tidal basins
15.01: E.1- Abstract
15.02: E.2- Introduction
15.03: E.3- Closures in the Wadden Sea
15.3.01: E.3.1- Closure of Zuiderzee
15.3.02: E.3.2- Closure of Lauwerszee
15.3.03: E.3.3- Discussion
15.04: E.4- Closures in the delta area
15.4.01: E.4.1- Overview of the closures
15.4.02: E.4.2- Developments outside area
15.4.03: E.4.3- Impact to the (semi-) closed basins
15.05: E.5- Conclusions