Phu Xuan University Library
Introduction to Physical Oceanography

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Introduction to Physical Oceanography

This book is written for upper-division undergraduates and new graduate students in meteorology, ocean engineering, and oceanography. Because these students have a diverse background, I have emphasized ideas and concepts more than mathematical derivations.

Author
Robert H. Stewart
Publisher
Texas A & M University
Source
LibreTexts
License
CC BY-NC-SA
Language
EN
Category
Basic Sciences
Contents· 135 sections
  1. 01: A Voyage of Discovery
  2. 1.1: Physics of the Ocean
  3. 1.2: Goals
  4. 1.3: Organization
  5. 1.4: The Big Picture
  6. 1.5: Further Reading
  7. 02: The Historical Setting
  8. 2.1: Definitions
  9. 2.2: Eras of Oceanographic Exploration
  10. 2.3: Milestones in the Understanding of the Ocean
  11. 2.4: Evolution of Some Theoretical Ideas
  12. 2.5: The Role of Observation in Oceanography
  13. 2.6: Important Concepts
  14. 03: The Physical Setting
  15. 3.1: Ocean and Seas
  16. 3.2: Dimensions of the Ocean
  17. 3.3: Sea-Floor Features
  18. 3.4: Measuring the Depth of the Ocean
  19. 3.5: Sea Floor Charts and Data Sets
  20. 3.6: Sound in the Ocean
  21. 3.7: Important Concepts
  22. 04: Atmospheric Influences
  23. 4.1: The Earth in Space
  24. 4.2: Atmospheric Wind Systems
  25. 4.3: The Planetary Boundary Layer
  26. 4.4: Measurement of Wind
  27. 4.5: Calculations of Wind
  28. 4.6: Wind Stress
  29. 4.7: Important Concepts
  30. 05: The Oceanic Heat Budget
  31. 5.1: The Oceanic Heat Budget
  32. 5.2: Heat-Budget Terms
  33. 5.3: Direct Calculation of Fluxes
  34. 5.4: Indirect Calculation of Fluxes: Bulk Formulas
  35. 5.5: Global Data Sets for Fluxes
  36. 5.6: Geographic Distribution of Terms
  37. 5.7: Meridional Heat Transport
  38. 5.8: Variations in Solar Constant
  39. 5.9: Important Concepts
  40. 06: Temperature Salinity and Density
  41. 6.01: Definition of Salinity
  42. 6.02: Definition of Temperature
  43. 6.03: Geographical Distribution
  44. 6.04: The Oceanic Mixed Layer and Thermocline
  45. 6.05: Density
  46. 6.06: Measurement of Temperature
  47. 6.07: Measurement of Conductivity or Salinity
  48. 6.08: Measurement of Pressure
  49. 6.09: Temperature and Salinity with Depth
  50. 6.10: Light in the Ocean and Absorption of Light
  51. 6.11: Important Concepts
  52. 07: The Equations of Motion
  53. 7.1: Dominant Forces of Ocean Dynamics
  54. 7.2: Coordinate System
  55. 7.3: Types of Flow in the Ocean
  56. 7.4: Conservation of Mass and Salt
  57. 7.5: The Total Derivative (D Dt)
  58. 7.6: Momentum Equation
  59. 7.7: Conservation of Mass: The Continuity Equation
  60. 7.8: Solutions to the Equations of Motion
  61. 7.9: Important Concepts
  62. 08: Equations of Motion with Viscosity
  63. 8.1: The Influence of Viscosity
  64. 8.2: Turbulence
  65. 8.3: Calculation of Reynolds Stress
  66. 8.4: Mixing in the Ocean
  67. 8.5: Stability
  68. 8.6: Important Concepts
  69. 09: Response of the Upper Ocean to Winds
  70. 9.1: Inertial Motion
  71. 9.2: Ekman Layer at the Sea Surface
  72. 9.3: Ekman Mass Transport
  73. 9.4: Application of Ekman Theory
  74. 9.5: Langmuir Circulation
  75. 9.6: Important Concepts
  76. 10: Geostrophic Currents
  77. 10.01: Hydrostatic Equilibrium
  78. 10.02: Geostrophic Equations
  79. 10.03: Surface Geostrophic Currents from Altimetry
  80. 10.04: Geostrophic Currents from Hydrography
  81. 10.05: An Example Using Hydrographic Data
  82. 10.06: Comments on Geostrophic Currents
  83. 10.07: Currents from Hydrographic Sections
  84. 10.08: Lagrangian Measurements of Currents
  85. 10.09: Eularian Measurements
  86. 10.10: Important Concepts
  87. 11: Wind-Driven Ocean Circulation
  88. 11.1: Sverdrup's Theory of the Ocean Circulation
  89. 11.2: Western Boundary Currents
  90. 11.3: Munk's Solution
  91. 11.4: Observed Surface Circulation in the Atlantic
  92. 11.5: Important Concepts
  93. 12: Vorticity in the Ocean
  94. 12.1: Definitions of Vorticity
  95. 12.2: Conservation of Vorticity
  96. 12.3: Influence of Vorticity
  97. 12.4: Vorticity and Ekman Pumping
  98. 12.5: Important Concepts
  99. 13: Deep Circulation in the Ocean
  100. 13.1: Defining the Deep Circulation
  101. 13.2: Importance of the Deep Circulation
  102. 13.3: Theory for the Deep Circulation
  103. 13.4: Observations of the Deep Circulation
  104. 13.5: Antarctic Circumpolar Current
  105. 13.6: Important Concepts
  106. 14: Equatorial Processes
  107. 14.1: Equatorial Processes
  108. 14.2: El Nino
  109. 14.3: El Nino Teleconnections
  110. 14.4: Observing El Nino
  111. 14.5: Forecasting El Nino
  112. 14.6: Important Concepts
  113. 15: Numerical Models
  114. 15.1: Introduction: Some Words of Caution
  115. 15.2: Numerical Models in Oceanography
  116. 15.3: Global Ocean Models
  117. 15.4: Coastal Models
  118. 15.5: Assimilation Models
  119. 15.6: Coupled Ocean and Atmosphere Models
  120. 15.7: Important Concepts
  121. 16: Ocean Waves
  122. 16.1: Linear Theory of Ocean Surface Waves
  123. 16.2: Nonlinear Waves
  124. 16.3: Waves and the Concept of a Wave Spectrum
  125. 16.4: Ocean-Wave Spectra
  126. 16.5: Wave Forecasting
  127. 16.6: Measurement of Waves
  128. 16.7: Important Concepts
  129. 17: Coastal Processes and Tides
  130. 17.1: Shoaling Waves and Coastal Processes
  131. 17.2: Tsunamis
  132. 17.3: Storm Surges
  133. 17.4: Theory of Ocean Tides
  134. 17.5: Tidal Prediction
  135. 17.6: Important Concepts